After a rewarding week of leading clients on a Japan birding tour through the scenic landscapes of Niigata and along the northern Japan Alps into Akita, I find myself returning to my Kominka—a traditional Japanese home built a hundred years ago—to resupply and see my guests off as they catch their flight home. I plan to take a well-earned few days of rest, enjoying the quiet seaside and countryside, before setting out once again to lead another Japan birding photo tour along the breathtaking coastline of the Sea of Japan and into the stunning Northern Japan Alps.

During the drive back to Niigata, we made a memorable stop at a charming local seaside shop. Our purpose was twofold: to pick up some of the region’s famous sea salt, and to visit a friend who has dedicated himself to the intricate craft of salt-making. His gourmet salt shop is a hidden gem along the coast, offering a fascinating glimpse into a tradition that is deeply woven into the fabric of Niigata’s culinary heritage.

Niigata’s sea salt is far from ordinary. While the region is celebrated for its pure, healthful foods, the salt stands out as a true symbol of both tradition and flavour. Crafted from the crystal-clear waters of the Sea of Japan, the process begins with the careful collection of seawater. Unlike common rock salt, which is extracted from underground deposits, Niigata’s sea salt is meticulously produced through a harmonious, gentle boiling. This practice, perfected over generations, is both labour-intensive and artful, demanding patience, attention to detail, and a deep respect for nature’s rhythms. In addition to seawater having a salt concentration of only 3%, it is difficult to produce salt from seawater by evaporating it in the sun year-round in Japan, where there is much rain and humidity. The only way to produce salt is to boil it down to extract the salt crystals, and only 18 kg can be obtained from 1,000 litres of seawater. Artists insist on using a careful manufacturing method to produce a high-quality product. Clear days are best  to pump up the seawater. Then they wait for sand and shells to settle in a tank, and filter the supernatant through a sarashi before pouring it into a salt cauldron. The temperature of the steam kettle is over 100 degrees Celsius. Wood is always kept burning, and the seawater is boiled down while carefully removing the lye. When the water is boiled down, it is transferred to the left and right kettles and boiled down again. Finally, the calcium sulphate, which is the source of the faint bitterness, is carefully removed. The resulting highly pure salt crystals are then poured into a conical device called a “bract,” which was made in the manner of the “warazuto” used in the past to wrap and transport food, and the bittern is removed. The process takes about 15 hours. This is the traditional way of making salt, using only natural ingredients.

The result is a salt that retains a remarkable variety of minerals, lending it a distinctive, clean taste and a complex flavour profile. Each batch carries with it the essence of the sea and the legacy of the artisans who pour their expertise and passion into every grain. It is a product that not only elevates the taste of food but also tells the story of Niigata’s enduring connection to the sea and its natural treasures.

Even within Niigata, this salt is much more than just a basic seasoning for cooking. Locals and chefs alike cherish it as a finishing touch—delicately sprinkled atop freshly made rice balls, crispy tempura, and, perhaps most surprisingly, creamy scoops of ice cream. The fine crystals dissolve gently, coaxing out both the sweet and savoury notes in each dish, and transforming simple foods into memorable culinary experiences. 

The versatility of Niigata’s sea salt shines brightest when it is paired with local seaweed. The combination produces an umami-rich taste that rivals the depth of a carefully simmered soup stock. Food prepared with this salt has a roundness and balance that makes additional flavour enhancers—like MSG or artificial additives—completely unnecessary. Whether used in soups, stews, curries, or even just atop grilled vegetables, the natural flavours are robust, satisfying, and distinctly evocative of the sea. The salt’s mineral complexity and subtle brininess highlight the freshness of local ingredients, and its use in innovative sweets, like salted caramels and chocolates, is gaining popularity among adventurous Japanese patissiers.

For much of the 20th century, salt production in Japan was tightly regulated by a government monopoly, limiting both variety and artisanal innovation. However, since the regulations were relaxed in the 1990s, there has been a renaissance in traditional salt-making. Passionate artisans have revived age-old methods, infusing new energy and creativity into the craft.

Today, along the shores of the Sea of Japan—from Niigata northward—you will find pristine beaches, protected coastal stretches, and some of the cleanest sea waters in the country. Here, dedicated salt-makers labour much as their ancestors did: harvesting seawater, tending the slow evaporation process, and monitoring every stage by hand. Their commitment to quality and authenticity has helped preserve not only a culinary tradition but also the unique flavours and natural abundance of the region. Visiting these coastal workshops is a chance to witness living history—a celebration of Niigata’s ongoing relationship with the sea and its remarkable, artisanal salt.