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Beyond the thrill of the chase, photographing the Shima Enaga and the Steller’s sea eagle on a Hokkaido photo tour with me is a lesson in contrasts: the Shima Enaga, a bird of least concern according to the IUCN, is rarely seen and even more rarely photographed. The Steller’s sea eagle is listed as vulnerable and is much more accessible to spot and photograph. Still, every encounter feels monumental—with only 4,000–7,000 remaining in the wild, each photograph is a tribute to a species fighting for survival.
Imagine yourself in the wild expanse of Hokkaido, Japan—snow swirling, forests hushed, and you and your camera ready for the adventure of a lifetime. For over 30 years, I’ve led wildlife photography expeditions here, and no two days are the same. As your photography leader, I’ll take you to the heart of Hokkaido’s untamed landscapes, where the legendary Steller’s sea eagle and the elusive Shima Enaga—Hokkaido’s beloved “snow fairies”—await. Photographing the Steller’s sea eagle is a breathtaking experience, with a 99% chance of getting you up close to these magnificent raptors. But the real thrill is in the pursuit of the Shima Enaga—a challenge that only the most dedicated wildlife photographers embrace. With their jittery movements and shy nature, spotting and capturing these birds in the wild is a true test of skill and patience. Most workshop leaders don’t even include the Shima Enaga in their itineraries, but I give you a fighting 70% chance—far higher than the norm. This is what sets our adventure apart: not just witnessing wildlife, but truly challenging ourselves to capture its rarest moments. The Steller’s sea eagle is the undisputed king of Hokkaido’s skies, a massive raptor weighing over 9 kilograms (20 pounds) with a wingspan that can reach 2.6 meters (over 8 feet). Their striking black and white plumage and fierce predatory skill make them a favourite among international photographers, and it’s no wonder—the thrill of photographing these apex predators as they swoop for salmon is unforgettable. On my workshops, you’ll witness their power up close and come home with a treasure trove of images.

But if you’re looking for the ultimate rare wildlife adventure, the Shima Enaga is your white whale. These tiny, impossibly cute birds flit through the forests in flocks, their high-pitched calls echoing through the snow-laden branches. Most photographers leave Hokkaido empty-handed, never capturing the elusive “snow fairy”—but with my years of expertise and local knowledge, you’ll have the best possible chance to succeed where others fail.

Interestingly, while Japanese photographers are obsessed with the Shima Enaga—fueling a nationwide craze of merchandise and collectibles—international visitors come to Hokkaido for the raptors. But the real insiders know: the magic lies in pursuing both. The Shima Enaga, with its flocking habits and distinctive high-pitched calls, is a master of evasion. Only with patience, quick reflexes, and prior birding photography experience with birds that fit in the palm of your hand do you stand a good chance of getting that perfect shot, even when spotting a flock; they move fast and are jittery and shy. Over the years, I’ve honed techniques and discovered hidden territories where these “snow fairies” appear, making every successful photograph a true triumph. Plus, I highly recommend carrying a good pair of binoculars; I use the Zeiss Victory SF 8x42, and my camera gear is a Nikon Z9 with the Nikkor Z 400mm f/2.8 TC VR S. If you want to learn more about this lens, here is my review on The Luminous Landscape.  

 

Thirteen subspecies of the long-tailed bushtit exist, and a few photographs of Shima Enaga lookalikes are circulating. Still, the bushtits in the images I have seen taken outside Japan are not Shima Enaga (Aegithalos caudatus japonicus). Subspecies of the Shima Enaga found outside Hokkaido have what is commonly referred to as ‘eyebrows’: small dark brown or black stripes on their stark white faces. Juvenile Hokkaido Shima Enaga also have these eyebrows, but as they reach adulthood, the eyebrows give way to an entirely white, elegant visage. Its bright white face and appearance must be where the term ‘snow fairies’ comes from.

Every season in Hokkaido brings new wildlife adventures, from icy rivers teeming with eagles to snow-covered forests alive with the fluttering of Shima Enaga. Years of studying their behaviour and habitats have given me an edge, and I’m always eager to share my secrets with fellow adventurers. Honestly, the thrill of finally capturing a Shima Enaga rivals even the rush of photographing the mighty Steller’s sea eagle. Both are stars of the wild—one for its sheer might, the other for its ethereal beauty.

Hokkaido 2028 is open for booking.
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