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This summer, I immersed myself in the wild beauty of the Japan Alps, ranging from the lush northern reaches to the dramatic peaks of central Japan. My quest: to glimpse and photograph the elusive Ruby Kingfisher, the crown jewel of this season’s birding tours. At present, I find myself in the Fukushima Highlands within Alpine Regions National Park, savoring crisp, post-rainy season air at a comfortable 23℃—a welcome contrast to the 35℃ heat in the cities below.

My friends have just arrived in Japan after a long flight and are resting up before our birding adventures begin in a couple of days. I arranged for one of our drivers to collect them at the airport, so they could relax right away. As for camping, comfort is a priority for my guests. Both the couple and my assistant and I are staying in Snow Peak Living Shell Pro Long tents—these offer a spacious living area and a separate inner tent that comfortably sleeps four. The living space features a bamboo camp table for dining and doubles as an office for editing photos. If it gets too warm, we have solar-powered portable air conditioning units, thanks to Anker solar panels and the latest Solix portable power stations. I’ve been in the field for over a month without any power issues.

Nighttime comfort is non-negotiable: camp cots with Klymit Static V Luxe mats ensure everyone sleeps soundly. The nearby private onsen offers a blissful soak after long days outdoors—or a hot shower for those who prefer it (I always opt for the springs!). Our meals are another highlight: stews, pasta, barbecue feasts with fresh fish and vegetables, Wagyu steaks and burgers and an abundance of seasonal fruits brightening the table.

About two weeks ago, at the peak of Japan's rainy season, I was in Yamagata, Japan, where we had the opportunity of a lifetime: roughly 30 min a day with the elusive, next-to-impossible-to-spot Ruby Kingfisher; I have thousands of great images and video. Then I got a call from a friend who was in Gunma. He was over the moon about spotting the Ruby Kingfisher in the Gunma prefecture Alps region, and he swore I needed to drive out. So the next day I dropped base camp and drove five hours to Gunma. This was my first time visiting the Alpine region in Gunma, and I really did not know what to expect, but I am always game to exploring a new region.  

The first thing that struck me upon arriving in the Alpine region of Gunma was the air—so fresh and clean. Daytime temperatures hovered around 15℃, dropping to 10℃ at night. On a couple of particularly chilly nights, I brought my Coleman gas lantern into the Snow Peak tent for warmth—though next time, I’ll pack a propane heater, even if it is summer. I learned my lesson: jeans, shirts, and socks soaked by day never dried overnight, even with a fan running. The humidity was relentless at 100%, with constant fog, mist, and rain, plus a stream running right by our camp. 

Base camp, nestled in a National Park and steps from a steaming hot spring, was an ideal hub for our adventures. Every morning, a wild orchestra of birds greeted us—reminiscent of my northern Canadian childhood, when summers were spent canoeing wild rivers and listening to the dawn chorus. Exploration is in my blood; it’s a rhythm I’ve never outgrown.

Before I talk about birds and photography, I feel I need to explain a little about Gunma Prefecture, Japan. It is one of the 3 least-visited spots for tourists and is rated as one of the most boring of Japan's 47 prefectures. The region is said to have little infrastructure, but this is not true. Gunma Prefecture isn’t boring or lacking in infrastructure; rather, its rural nature, mountainous terrain, and agricultural-heavy economy create a quiet, nature-focused lifestyle that contrasts with bustling metropolises like Tokyo. It actually boasts major transit connections and high-quality onsen resorts, and it was named Japan's top rural relocation destination.  Would I visit again? Yes. Would I live in Gunma? No, I prefer summers on the Sea of Japan, at my Niigata beach Kominka, plus love my time in Hokkaido, Kanagawa, and Mt. Fuji getaways.  Gunma’s perception as being "boring" primarily stems from its status as an interior, rural region that leans heavily into agriculture and quiet living rather than urban nightlife. However, this "boring" vibe is exactly what makes it a massive draw for people looking for a slower, nature-proximate lifestyle. And this is where I come to a heavy paradox: I stayed in Gunma birding for a week, and I left a day early. I dropped basecamp in light rain because the forecast called for a few days of heavy rain, so I took the opportunity and left quickly. While in Gunma, I visited the cabbage, lettuce, and broccoli fields. They were massive; I have never seen endless rows of cabbage before. Truly unique, it kinda reminded me of the grasslands of Alberta with mountains in the backdrop, or Manitoba wheat fields; in some strange way I felt I was visiting my childhood homes, yup I am a rural country boy. The food in Gunma was amazing, hands down 5 stars fresh and healthy. But with rich agricultural soil comes dust, and my new Toyota GR Hilux diesel took about five hours to wash and clean it all away. I don’t mind maintaining my gear, but I learned a valuable lesson: I have become spoiled living in my chosen rural parts of Japan, but now I can visit Gunma for that childhood nostalgia.

Birding in Gunma. 

Hands down, birding in Gunma during the height of the rainy season was worth every moment. As I mentioned earlier, we were woken at first light by the dawn chorus; nests were all around us, we could hear chicks, and we had daily visits from fledglings- such a beautiful experience; it’s been a moment since I had been in such a rich communal breeding colony.  We did spot the Ruby Kingfisher, but Yamagata was a better choice. Species such as the Durian Redstart (Phoenicurus auroreus) are known as jōbitaki (ジョウビタキ), Black Redstart, Meadow Bunting (Emberiza cioides), Grey Wagtail(Motacilla cinerea),  Japanese Wagtail  (Motacilla grandis), Oriental Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus orientalis), Asian Brown Flycatcher (Muscicapa dauurica), Eurasian Sparrow (Passer montanus), and many others. Gunma is paradise, with a very high certainty. I will continue exploring Gunma, but it will take me a few years to open a route in the region, as I like to know the places I lead photo workshops like the back of my hand, and any experienced workshop leaders should, just in case of typhoons or other natural calamities. Currently, we are in Fukushima and will be back in Yamagata and further north into Akita, Aomori, and Sendai in search of the Ruby Kingfisher and other wildlife; these regions I have been exploring for decades.
If you have any questions about birding in Japan, or want to join me on an adventure drop me a line.
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