Japan’s Samurai Fortresses - Autumn Leaves Photography Workshop

As autumn’s vibrant leaves sweep across Japan in late October, I embark on my annual cross-country photography workshops that unveil the beauty and history of the nation’s three main islands: Honshu, Kyushu, and Hokkaido. Japan’s landscape is dotted with numerous ancient Zen Buddhist Sanctuaries and Shinto shrines, as well as over 5,000 samurai castles and fortresses, many of which date back to the turbulent Sengoku “Warring States” period (1467-1615). These iconic structures, some better preserved than others, are tangible reminders of a rich heritage that continues to inspire. Many great castles were built before or during the Edo Period, standing as silent witnesses to centuries of change. The Meiji Restoration, marked by the rise of Emperor Mutsuhito and the influence of Prince Ito Hirobumi, brought sweeping modernization but also threatened the legacy of the samurai. The new government sought to westernize Japan, often dismissing samurai traditions as obsolete. For years, Japan’s identity teetered between tradition and transformation.

At the beginning of the Meiji period (1868 - 1912), Western values were being imposed on the Japanese people to such a degree that the majority of the urban population began to regard anything non-Western as trivial, while many across Japan still held high regard for traditional Japanese customs, especially the samurai folklore and their legends that shaped Japan.

The abolition of the samurai class in the late 1870s was a pivotal aspect of the Meiji Restoration, a revolutionary transformation that led Japan from a feudal society to a modern nation-state. Ironically, lower-ranking samurai spearheaded the very movement that would end their own privileged status.

The Meiji government began consolidating power under the emperor immediately after the Meiji Restoration in 1868. By 1871, the feudal domains (han) and the daimyō (feudal lords) who owned them were abolished and replaced by prefectures. The castles were confiscated and transferred to the new central government.

1872 National castle survey. The government conducted an extensive national survey of castles to evaluate their condition and strategic importance. The newly established Army Ministry claimed key sites for military use, while the vast majority were turned over to the Finance Ministry for disposal.

1873 The Haijo Edict. The government formally ordered the demolition or disposal of castles, viewing them as relics of the feudal past. Many were subsequently torn down, sold off for salvage, or repurposed. Only a small portion of the 2,000 existing castles were retained, some for the new army.

1876 The Haito Edict. This law banned former samurai from carrying swords in public, removing one of the last vestiges of their former status and symbolic power.

The mid-Meiji period (1870s and 1880s) saw several significant uprisings, most notably the Satsuma Rebellion (1877) led by Saigo Takamori (which inspired the movie The Last Samurai, starring Tom Cruise and Ken Watanabe), which was the last major samurai revolt against the new imperial government. Other unrest included revolts and movements demanding greater popular rights, leading the government to repress dissent through laws and a newly formed army, while also beginning the process of establishing a more representative government to address demands for political power. The Emperor Meiji himself was not directly known or "liked" by most people, as they rarely saw him and were mostly unaware of his personal life, but he was deeply revered and respected as a divine symbol of national unity and modernity by the populace. However, there was much discord across Japan, and rumours of another Samurai revolt were always circulating.

It is said that the Meiji Emperor and Prince Ito Hirobumi realized the folly of disregarding the samurai, whose code of Bushido was the adhesive that had held the samurai nation together for centuries. Bringing back traditional Japanese national pride was urgent to stamp out any discord. The best course was to reintroduce Bushido, ‘The Way of the Samurai’, and it worked like a charm. The Hagakure by Yamamoto Tsunetomo (1659-1719) is regarded as a guidebook for bushido and the way of the samurai, and it is the text that helped return the samurai to their rightful place in Japan’s rich yet sometimes turbulent history. However, the Meiji government promoted its own imperial Bushido through official channels. The Imperial Rescript to Soldiers and Sailors of 1882, for example, called for absolute loyalty to the emperor and nation, portraying samurai values as the essence of the Japanese character.

In the Meiji interpretation of the Hagakure, the samurai were awarded some of their previous glory, but the revision also outlined that the emperor represented supreme power throughout. The descendants of the samurai who aligned with and took office under the Meiji government, helped write the new constitution, and took control of the entire nation, are still in power in Japan today. In the roughly two decades before the samurai spirit resumed acceptance in Japan, one of the symbols of their legacy —namely, the fortresses and castles —were ordered to be destroyed. In spite of all the destruction, today over a hundred stand in Japan, but over ninety of them have been rebuilt. Only twelve original Samurai castles survived and can be visited today.

Yet, even through political upheaval and cultural shifts, the enduring spirit of the samurai and their magnificent homes and castles survived. Today, autumn is the perfect season to experience this legacy—when fiery leaves frame the Samurai wooden structures, stone walls and moats, and history comes alive in every photograph. Join the photography workshop to visit the most captivating scenes and off-the-beaten-path power spots, capturing these moments with access to select interiors and festival spaces, and a story-rich context from a seasoned local photographer.

We explore dozens of historical Samurai era sites, including perhaps Japan’s most celebrated original castle, Matsumoto Castle, affectionately known as “Karasujo” or “Crow Castle” for its striking black walls and wing-like towers. As part of my Autumn Leaves Photography Workshop, you’ll explore this fortress’s storied past, benefit from on-site shooting tips, and engage with the region’s legendary figures, including Oda Nobunaga, Ieyasu Tokugawa, Takeda Shingen, and Hideyoshi Toyotomi.

Matsumoto Castle is a photographer’s dream, especially during autumn when over 300 maples ring the moat and the snow-capped Japanese Alps create a breathtaking backdrop. Joining the photography workshop means enjoying an intimate, authentic atmosphere and personalized coaching to capture once-in-a-lifetime images—and to gain a deeper appreciation of Japan’s living history.

While autumn leaves follow their own schedule, each journey is a pilgrimage along ancient routes once walked by samurai, daimyo, geisha, Zen monks, and artisans—including ukiyo-e master Hokusai. Through the photography workshop, you’ll receive one-on-one professional assistance with composing gallery-worthy images of the historic Samurai era and its predecessors, framed by autumn’s fiery palette, and thrilled by our route that takes us on Japan's most ancient pilgrimage routes, revealing hidden photographic gems.

We’ll also take time to enjoy other timeless traditions, such as the Japanese tea ceremony and the practice of Momijigari, 紅葉狩り—appreciating the beauty of autumn leaves before heading out on our next photographic adventure. As a participant in the workshop, you’ll join a supportive group, enjoy cultural immersion, and leave with a portfolio of memorable images.

Secure your spot now for an unforgettable Essence of Autumn Japan maple leaves cross-country journey that includes not only breathtaking landscapes, waterfalls, and the most brilliant autumn leaves' vibrant colours, but also samurai fortresses, Zen Buddhist Sanctuaries, ancient Kofun sites, and Shinto Shrines. Japan Autumn Leaves Photography Workshop.

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Japan’s Samurai Fortresses - Autumn Leaves Photography Workshop

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