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Japan's Indigenous People the Ainu - Hokkaido Photograph Tour

Tuesday, September 10, 2024 | By: Blain Harasymiw Photography

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During my annual Hokkaido photography workshop tour, the First Nations people of Japan, the Ainu and their vibrant culture are always a part of the expedition I share with participants.  The Ainu like many other First Nations people around the globe have struggled to preserve their cultural identity among attempted appropriation and several forced migrations, ultimately leading them to where they are now, mainly in Hokkaido and islands now held by Russia after WWII a short distance from Hokkaido’s shores.  Prior to the Kofun period ((250 to about 540AD) the Ainu were a migratory peoples and inhabited from present day Kyoto to the Islands north of Hokkaido, and parts of present day Russia.  100% the Ainu inhabited the Mt. Fuji region, Fujiyama central Japans most sacred volcano is names after the Ainu fire goddess Kamui-Fuchi, her full name is Apemerukoyan-mat Unamerukoyan-mat (Rising Fire Sparks Woman/ Rising Cinder Sparks Woman), she is also known as Iresu Kamuy, The People Teacher, she is the Ainu fire goddess that heats our hearts, community and homes.  

Ainu Crane Dance listed as Intangible Culture Heritage by UNESCO in 2009. Durning my annual Hokkaido photo tour, I always watch the performance with friends and clients, at there is a part when the audience may join in the dance.

Ainu Ezo sika deer antler chairs, Red-crowned craned hand carved Hokkaido wood wall decoration about 5feet tall, and Ainu painting. This is display I photographed at one my favourite lodging in Hotel Akan Kotan.

Ainu Officially Declared The Indigenous People of Japan

The process to have the Ainu officially declared indigenous people started in 2006 when a bill was first proposed in the National Diet of Japan.  Two years later, on June 6, the non-binding, bipartisan resolution was passed, but it would take 11 more years until 2019 to finally pass the bill in the National Diet to recognize the Ainu as Japan’s indigenous people.  The reason for this ‘timely’ recognition is most likely related to the Tokyo Olympics initially slated for 2020 when the entire country would be under an international microscope.  Regardless of the circumstances, this official recognition is an important step in protecting their cultural identity and preserving their historic traditions.  Thankfully, the significance of Ainu dance preceded their affirmation as indigenous people, their dance being designated as an ‘Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan’ in 1984.  Later in 2009, UNESCO also recognized its cultural importance and included Ainu dance on the list of ‘Intangible Culture Heritage’ in 2009.  

Ainu performance Hokkaido Japan. I took this image while leading a Luminous Landscape photography workshop.

Ainu Elder lighting the fires at the nightly Kotan fire festival, which are held nightly, and said to protect the village, since ancient times.

Hokkaido Ainu Kotan, yes the Ainu carve totem poles, and a good friend of mine Shitomi is one of Akanko's master Ainu carvers.

One goal of mine during all my Japan photography workshops is to introduce clients to authentic Japan, and I include the Ainu performances, that are designated by UNESCO.  My team and I will escort you to the Ainu Kotan villages.  There you can can part in the lomante fire festival in the Ainu Theater ‘Ikor’.  The rarity and exclusivity of this experience makes this a once in a lifetime opportunity, and now that Japan has opened to Ainu traditions and culture, their traditions and ancient artifacts are surfacing once again, giving visitors one more entry point to appreciate Ainu cultural traditions.

One tradition that I am drawn to is Ainu traditional woodworking and crafting.  As with Ainu dance, their weaving of Nibutani attus, bark-cloth textiles and Nibutani ita, wooden trays adorned with intricate carvings are both ‘Officially Designated Traditional Crafts’, the only two on Japan’s most Northern island Hokkaido.  Nearly all of the traditions and cultural practices are only known to a handful of Ainu elders and passed down orally in an attempt to keep them out of the hands of invaders, treasures that represent all of the Ainu Kamuy, spiritual beings, are being re-discovered and can be viewed in the Ainu Kotan villages that along Hokkaido’s countryside.  Since their tribal origins, the Ainu have established a mutually reciprocal relationship with nature.  Their closeness to the land and its energy means that they have gravitated toward abundances of nature such as the fishing and wildlife for which Hokkaido is well-known.  The Ainu natural attunement also means knowledge of power points over which many Ainu settlements are constructed.  All of this cultural richness and natural awareness is communicated in their lifestyle and acutely in Ainu dances, performances, and craftsmanship.

Bigger than life-size Ainu carved human figure, this masterpiece sits in the lobby of one of my favourite lodgings in Akanko Ainu Kotan.

There are some pieces in our lodging collection that were brought in from the PNW, this image I took at one of my favourite lodgings in Hokkaido.

Shitomi of the Ainu carved this Hair clip, Ainu Kotan Akanko Hokkaido.

The Owl is the protector of the Kotan/Village, my good friend Shitomi of the Ainu carved this piece.

Shitomi not only carves but uses unique colour natural paints on some of his art, he also carves and paints totem poles.

Wooden brooch hand carved by my good friend Shitomi of the Ainu, Hokkaido Akanko Kotan.

Parts of Hokkaido are famous for sudden snow storms in winter, never trust weather apps, regions in the highlands and foothills are unprincipled, you should travel with a local, someone who knows how to read the regions weather.

Join Me in 2026 for the most diverse Hokkaido photography workshop.
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