I am now leading my first annual group Hokkaido photo tour, and each day has felt like stepping into a living nature documentary. Our adventure kicked off as we assembled before sunrise, our breath visible in the blue-tinged dawn as we layered up and prepared our gear. The anticipation was electric—every lens and memory card primed for what lay ahead.

For two unforgettable days, we tracked the Red-crowned cranes ) Grus japonensis) across frozen wetlands, their enchanting calls echoing through the stillness. These majestic birds stand nearly five feet tall and have wingspans over eight feet, making them among the largest crane species in the world. Even more remarkable is that they mate for life—a symbol of enduring partnership in the wild. We lay in wait as the first rays of sun turned the snow golden, watching lifelong pairs perform their elaborate courtship dances—leaping, bowing, and calling to one another in a ritual unchanged for centuries. Each shutter click felt like capturing a fragment of ancient magic. The stark beauty of Hokkaido in winter, with its snow-draped trees and serene silence, has been the perfect stage for these incredible encounters.

But our expedition is about more than wildlife; it’s a journey into the soul of Hokkaido. Yesterday was a day I will never forget, as we ventured into the forested highlands to connect with my dear friends, the indigenous people of Japan, the Ainu. The Ainu’s sacred beliefs revolve around maintaining harmony with the kamuy—spiritual beings inhabiting the natural world. The term “kamuy” shares a linguistic similarity with the Japanese words “kami” (神, god) and “hotoke” (仏, spirit), yet its meaning and cultural significance are uniquely Ainu.

The welcome we received was beyond heartfelt—my friends opened their homes and hearts to us, eager to share the richness of their heritage. For many participants, it was truly the cultural experience of a lifetime. And we also had the opportunity to photograph Sika Deer in the backcountry, a truly breathtaking experience. Then we checked into our 5-star lodgings, soaked in the healing Onen, and then we enjoyed a spectacular dinner of Hokkaido’s finest cuisine. 

After dinner partiants had event choices, fireworks, and the Ainu fire festival. The other, and my choice, was the local theatre to witness the Ainu people's sacred ceremonies and join in traditional songs. The rhythms of Ainu music are truly captivating, and Ainu stories, their words paint vivid images of the land and its spirits. It’s always amazing to watch my friends perform their traditional dances—each movement telling a story of survival, gratitude, and deep connection to nature. The rhythms of Ainu music echoed through the Akan region of Hokkaido, drawing us into the moment. The genuine exchange of friendship and respect was profoundly moving—moments that can’t be captured in a photograph, but are etched forever in memory. This cultural immersion has already left a lasting impression, shaping both our images and our understanding of this northern frontier in ways words can barely describe.

Soon, we’ll set our sights on the windswept Pacific coast, a wild frontier where the land meets the sea in dramatic fashion. Here, we spot and photograph the magnificent Steller’s Sea Eagle—one of the largest and most powerful raptors in the world. The thrill of spotting these eagles perched on drift ice or soaring above the waves, their wings backlit by the winter sun, is unlike anything else in wildlife photography. Along the way, we’ll encounter dozens of other species unique to this region, each new discovery fueling our collective sense of wonder and adventure.

Every day here brings unexpected moments: such as a fox dashing across the snow, the sudden hush before a flock of swans takes flight, the camaraderie forged during golden hours, and shared triumphs. Leading my annyal Hookkaido photo workshops is always a highlight of my year, and I can’t wait to see what the rest of our adventure holds. The wild heart of Hokkaido never fails to inspire, and I look forward to bringing these experiences home, one unforgettable image at a time.