On our last trip to "Nikko Japan," while I was leading another Japan Photograph Tour we got hit by surprise by a slow-moving typhoon.
Typhoon Etau slammed into the Kanto region of Japan in September of 2015 while I was leading my annual Nikko photo tour. I often look back on these times and share my stories in the hope that they will educate tourists and locals on safety protocols when time is of the essence during an impending natural disaster.
That fateful morning began with birds chirping and clear skies at our lodgings, about 90 minutes before breakfast in Nikko. I quickly checked the Japan Meteorological Agency and saw that Typhoon Etau was heading directly toward us, expected to arrive in about nine hours—and it was a powerful one. Realizing there was nothing immediate to be done, I enjoyed my morning onsen ritual; the onsen at this lodging is truly amazing: bamboo forest, deer running across a grassy feild, birds chirping. After my onsen, my clients were already seated for breakfast, and I joined them at the table. Suddenly, the hotel owner rushed in, clearly panicked, to warn us of the approaching typhoon and the severity of the situation. He informed us we could not stay that night and insisted we evacuate his lodgings and leave Nikko immediately. We finished breakfast at 8:00 a.m., after which the owner pressed us to leave quickly. I asked where he was getting his evacuation information; he replied it was from the radio and TV and mentioned that “tourists were leaving Nikko in busloads.” At that moment, I realized he was unfamiliar with proper evacuation protocols. Knowing the local roads and highways, I also knew there was already a 50-kilometre traffic jam heading into Tokyo. I informed my clients we would check out at 10 a.m. and encouraged them to enjoy the onsen in the meantime—which several of us did.
River in Nikko, Japan during Typhoon
River in Nikko, Japan the day before the Typhoon
Toshogu Shrine photographed during Typhoon Nikko, Japan
After checking out, I drove the lead SUV to the main fire hall, finding the scene eerily quiet. As a former rescue specialist, I was surprised not to see first responders preparing for a major disaster. My team and I exited our vehicles and rang the bell, then a few minutes later we spoke with the fire/rescue chief—the head of Nikko's FDMA, Fire, and Disaster Management Agency—and his team. I asked, "What do you recommend we do?" The chief and his crew, clearly overwhelmed, were also extremely helpful, grateful that someone sought guidance on the proper course of action. He showed me the weather charts, detailing the path of the approaching Super Typhoon.
We could see that there was only a small window of time to get from Nikko to Tokyo before people would be stranded in transit. The highways were soon to be clogged with hundreds of thousands of tourists who were all going in the wrong direction. The Aerial photo below shows only one small section of highway and region where the river water had overflowed the roads, making them impassible. In fact, there were now 10 km lakes in many areas where there hadn't been before. Over 50% of those who had fled Nikko in the morning were stranded in vehicles; the lucky ones were stranded at roadside rest stops. It took three days for the waters to recede. Military helicopters plucked stranded residents from roofs after waters surged over a wide area when the raging Kinugawa River burst its banks in Joso, north of Tokyo, swamping the city of 65,000 people. Dramatic aerial footage showed whole houses being swept away by raging torrents, in scenes eerily reminiscent of the devastating tsunami that crushed Japan's northeast coast in 2011.
While villages below Nikko and closer to sea level experienced flooding, Nikko itself sits over 600 meters above sea level and remained perfectly safe with no flooding that day.
As a final word of caution, if you want to take a Japan photography tour—or any photo tour worldwide—prioritize travelling with an experienced local leader. Choose someone who is either a local or has thoroughly scouted the area for at least three to five years, not just a few days. Your leader should be familiar with the region's topography, seasonal weather patterns, and emergency evacuation procedures, and be fully prepared for unexpected situations so your trip remains safe and carefree.
As an experienced world explorer, I always recommend bringing durable weather covers for both your gear and yourself. Weather conditions can change unexpectedly on a photography adventure, so it's best to be prepared for anything. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me!
Rinnō-ji Buddhist Temple Nikko, Japan
Leave a comment
0 Comments